Alone in the Borghese Gallery

Written By: Kim - Aug• 07•11

On our last full day in Rome, I spent two hours in the morning at the Borghese Gallery. Alone.

The side view of the Borghese Gallery. ©Mike Howard

What a glorious way to start your day.

The museum houses several sculptures by Bernini. His sculptures are so realistic, you can see every fold, muscle tone, or toga fold. One of the sculptures, Apollo and Daphne, has such intricate details on the leaves between the two bodies, that I simply could not believe what a master talent this man had. Restorers say that when you touch the leaves, they ring like crystal.

The museum, which was once a villa owned by Cardinal Borghese, also houses other artist’s sculptures and paintings. Get the audio tour and go at your own pace. I learned two paintings I was looking at were actually made of miniature mosiacs. Once I moved closer, I could see the details. I would simply have thought they were two oil paintings and would have moved on to the next room.

The gift shop had your typical items, but I did purchase a set of cufflinks with bees on them, which were in the crest of the Borghese family. I also picked up a lovely silk scarf that I can’t wait to wear when the weather cools.

Italian divas Abby and Mom at the Borghese Gardens. ©Mike Howard

The museumn is located in what is Rome’s answer to New York City’s Central Park, but on a smaller scale. We rented bikes, dipped our feet in to the large swimming pool-like fountain and watched the kids spend an hour pedaling go carts. There are plenty of shaded areas for picnics as well.

We spent our last night in Rome at a resturaunt we discovered two blocks from our hotel consuming yet another plate of prosciutto and melon. We also said goodbye to our Italian gelato friends we made at their shop since we frequented them everyday.

We highly recommend the hazelnut and lemon creme gelatos. Excellent.

Our Catholic Roots Are Showing at Vatican City

Written By: Kim - Aug• 06•11

On our fourth day in Rome, we spent all day at Vatican City. Despite the fact that we allowed plenty of time to get there, we did not anticipate that the Metro train sign near our hotel was really a walking corridor to the next stop. Fifteen minutes later….

Once we got on the Metro train, the train was packed, despite the fact that it was 10:15 am. Cognizant of pick pockets, we were on alert. In the throng of people, Mike had gotten separated from us. After we got off the train, he told us that an older woman tried to steal from his cargo pocket. The pockets were buttoned and he felt something brush by his thigh. He checked and the pocket was unbuttoned. Luckily, there was nothing in it but gum, but she didn’t even get that. He closed the pocket and she tried again. This time, he slapped her hand away. Our second experience with Rome’s infamous pick pockets.

Still rushing from our misunderstanding of the Spagna Metro Stop, we headed toward the Vatican, a 10 minute walk. Thank God I listened to the advice of others and booked our tour tickets ahead of time. The regular line wrapped around two city blocks along the Vatican Wall. We arrived 15 minutes late, but were greeted by our lovely guide, Christina.

Swiss Guards protect the Vatican and the pope. ©Mike Howard

If you go, pay the extra charge and get the audio tour. It is much easier to hear your guide since most of the rooms are crowded and cavernous. It is also worth the price to pay for a guided tour. If you bother to go to Vatican City, you should learn as much as you can while you are there. Art lovers and appreciators will thoroughly enjoy seeing and learning about these Vatican treasurers.

One of the Vatican Museum ceilings. ©Mike Howard

We spent the first 30 minutes in front of a huge touchscreen showcasing the details of the Sistine Chapel paintings. The ceiling is 20 meters above ground and during peak months, it’s crowded. People milling about and others sitting on the coveted benches pressed up against the walls. They are not moving so be prepared to stand. This is also the room where the cardinals convene to elect the new pope. The Sistine Chapel is the pope’s private chapel and he says mass there.

To say that we were overwhelmed by the manmade beauty is the understatement of the year. To say that God granted these artists unbelievable talent and eyes for seeing and creating things that mere mortals do not, is the second understatement of the year. The sheer vastness of the Vatican’s collection of artwork makes this visit a must for novices and connesiours. Amazing.

After touring the Vatican Museums, which included the Sistine Chapel, we headed to St. Peter’s

The alter over St. Peter's crypt. Only the pope is allowed to say mass here. ©Mike Howard

Basilica. Only the pope is allowed to say mass  at the Alter of St. Peter. And what an alter it is. Literally located over the tomb of St.Peter, the alter boasts copper columns that almost reach the ceiling. There are several chapels where you can get married, baptize your children or have your parish priest say mass if there is a group coming. Apparently, you have to book early, but what an experience!

We then headed back to the little shop run by nuns. The religious items they sold were simply stunning and reasonably priced. What a lovely group of ladies to shop with. A final shot of the Swiss Guards and we headed out to St. Peter’s Square. The sheer vastness of this and the fact that the buildings are shaped to form outstretched arms tells us that the architect knew his customer quite well.